I've cooked a few loaves of basic french bread and decided: time to try something harder. The first recipe that caught my eye was "Pain a l'Ancienne" (also from Artisan Breads Everyday). The recipe has one major difference from the french bread: the flour to water ratio is around 1.25 : 1, where the french bread has around 1.5 : 1. This leads to a couple differences in the prep. First, the dough is not something you would want to knead. It is gooey and sticky when first mixed:
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Dough after 1 minute of mixing and 5 minutes of resting |
The instructions call for a process Reinhart calls "stretch and fold". You place the dough on a flat surface, pull out a side, and fold it back over. You do this for each side, and repeat the process four times allowing a 10 minute rest between each time. The process was a joy - you get to coat your hands and a prep surface in oil and feel the bread get a little firmer (but not really less sticky) with each iteration.
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Dough after fourth (and final) stretch and fold. Note how firm and cohesive it looks. |
After that, you do the usual cold fermentation - stick it in the fridge, covered, for at least a night. I prepped the dough Wednesday and cooked it Friday morning, giving it two nights. When I took it out in the morning to prep, it had at least doubled in size. For baking, I decided to go with mini baguettes because the ciabatta variant would take around 3 hours to prep (compared to 1 hour for the baguettes).
The dough was great fun to work with - it was light and airy, much like pizza dough. I think, in fact, the recipe is the same as used for pizza later in the book. For prep, you coat a work surface in flour, flour the top of the bread, and flour your hands - the dough will stick to anything and everything that you give it a chance to. Oh, you also roll the formed baguettes in flour, just for good measure.
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Coated dough, patted into a rectangle an inch or two short of how long you want the baguettes to be. |
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The formed baguettes. To form them, you cut off a strip of the main loaf, roll it in flour, and gently lift it onto the baking surface, stretching it by an inch or two. |
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Finished baguettes. They had amazing internal pockets - some up to pinky-sized. |
The baguettes only used about 3/4 of the dough (need either more patience or a second, large baking sheet), so I formed it into a tiny tiny ciabatta and threw it in the oven with the baguettes on my toaster oven tray. It failed to keep its shape, so mayhaps the 3 hour prep time for the ciabatta (consisting mostly of letting the dough sit after a minute of work) is required.